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 Installation and service must be performed by a qualified installer or 
service agency 
Ecotherm MV 112 / 120 / 130 
Specifications & Troubleshooting 
  
  
    | Model  | 
    MV 112  | 
    MV 120 | 
    MV 130 |  
  
    | Input Btu/hr. (max.) | 
    5,600 | 
    8,400 | 
    14,000 |  
  
    | Output Btu/hr. (max.) | 
    4,200 | 
    6,400 | 
    10,690 |  
  
    | Input Btu/hr. (min.) | 
    2,312 | 
    3,800 | 
    6,000 |  
  
    | Output Btu/hr. (min.) | 
    1,734 | 
    2,890 | 
    4,286 |  
  
    | Manifold Gas Pressure (NAT) | 
    3.5" W.C. | 
    3.5" W.C. | 
    3.5" W.C. |  
  
    | Min. Gas Pressure (NAT) | 
    7.0" W.C. | 
    7.0" W.C. | 
    7.0" W.C. |  
  
    | Max. Gas Pressure (NAT) | 
    10.5" W.C. | 
    10.5" W.C. | 
    10.5" W.C. |  
  
    | Manifold Gas Pressure (LP) | 
    10.5" W.C. | 
    10.5" W.C. | 
    10.5" W.C. |  
  
    | Min. Gas Pressure (LP) | 
    11.0" W.C. | 
    11.0" W.C. | 
    11.0" W.C. |  
  
    | Max. Gas Pressure (LP) | 
    13.0" W.C. | 
    13.0" W.C. | 
    13.0" W.C. |  
  
    | Net Weight | 
    26 lbs. | 
    34 lbs. | 
    46 lbs. |  
  
    | Dimensions | 
    24 3/8" x 15 3/8" x 6 5/8" | 
    24 3/8" x 21 1/8" x 6 5/8" | 
    24 3/8" x 27 1/8" x 6 5/8" |  
  
    | Direct Vent Flue Size | 
    3 9/16" | 
    3 9/16" | 
    4 3/4" |  
  
    | Maximum Wall Thickness | 
    *20" (12" vent kit comes with unit) | 
    *20" (12" vent kit comes with unit) | 
    *20" (12" vent kit comes with unit) |  
  
    | Minimum Wall Thickness | 
    6" | 
    6" | 
    6" |   
* 12" length vent kit comes with each unit. A 20" inch vent kit is available 
but will need to be special ordered. 
Interior Minimum Clearances:  Diagram of interior clearances 
Exterior Minimum Clearances:Diagram of exterior clearances 
INSTALLATION TIPS
Mount unit to a secure wall. Observe that the included vent kit has both an 
inner and outer pipe. The 1-3/4" difference in their lengths is required for 
them to properly seal to the back of the unit, so when cutting be sure to remove 
the same amount from the inner pipe as you do from the outer pipe. 
  
 
  
Troubleshooting
Parts diagram and 
list 
PILOT WILL NOT LIGHT
  - Gas is not turned on, or air is in gas line. Hold down control valve being 
  certain that it is in the pilot position long enough to bleed any air trapped 
  in gas line. 
  
 - Inadequate gas supply. 
  
 - Piezo ignitor is not throwing a spark. Look into lower right view window 
  while depressing on piezo ignitor button at top of unit. If no spark is 
  visible check connections of lead wire at piezo ingitor and ceramic electrode. 
  
 - Pilot orifice is clogged. Cleaning 
  pilot orifice 
  
 - Excess gas pressure. The gas valve on the heater has an internal appliance 
  regulator within it. This internal regulator will lock up if excess gas 
  pressure is delivered to it, shut off gas supply to unlock internal regulator. 
  See required gas pressures at table above and correct by regulating gas supply 
  properly 
  
PILOT WILL NOT STAY LIT WHEN KNOB IS RELEASED
  - Once pilot is lit, the gas control knob must be held down long enough to 
  energize the pilot circuit (15-20 seconds). 
  
 - Pilot flame is small or yellow. The pilot flame can be viewed through the 
  lower right view window while the control knob is depressed. If the flame is 
  small or yellow in color then the pilot orifice should be cleaned. Cleaning 
  pilot orifice 
  
 - If pilot flame is adequate then the thermocouple should be replaced. 
  
MAIN BURNER WON'T LIGHT
  - Turn the control knob past the pilot position (counter-clockwise) to a 
  desired temperature setting. If room is already warm dial may need to be 
  turned almost all the way. 
  
 - Main burner orifice is clogged. Not very likely. Undo the lower right 
  burner tube connection at the brass orifice and then remove the brass orifice 
  to inspect. 
  
 - Gas control valve is defective. 
  
MAIN BURNER WON'T STAY LIT
  - It is imperative that the direct vent pipes to the heater be clear. Look 
  into inner and outer vent pipe from the outside with a flashlight. 
  
 - The direct vent connections are made to the heater upon installation. If 
  installation was recent; first look at rear of heater to confirm that the 
  outer vent pipe seals tightly to the back of unit then remove the heater from 
  the wall and remeasure the length of the inner vent pipe. The inner (smaller 
  diameter) pipe has to protrude 1 3/4" beyond the outer (larger diameter) pipe. 
  This additional length is necessary to make its seal inside the back of the 
  unit. If either of these vent pipes do not make a tight seal then the unit 
  will not operate properly. 
  
 - Outside vent cap is not mounted flush to exterior wall. The vent cap is 
  designed to allow a proper amount of combustion air in and exhaust flue gases 
  out and does depend on flat surface behind it to do this, if the vent cap 
  extends beyond the exterior outside wall then a support box will need to be 
  constructed. See diagram.
  
   - Thermostat bulb or capillary at lower right rear of heater is broken. 
  Replace control. 
  
ROOM WILL NOT MAINTAIN TEMPERATURE
  - The heater is too small for the space. 
  
 - Insufficient gas pressure. See required gas pressures in table above. 
  
 - Excessive air leaks in room. 
  
 - Thermostat bulb or capillary at lower right rear of heater is broken. 
  
WALL IS TOO HOT OR DISCOLORED
  - See expected surface temperatures on heater and back wall. Surface 
  temperatures 
  
 - If the heater is too small for the space it will run for a length of time 
  that may be damaging to the heater and the wall behind it. When this happens 
  the heat exchanger can overheat and any dust or other particulates in the room 
  that are naturally convected around the room and up through the heater may 
  singe and stain the wall behind and above unit. Correct by upgrading to a 
  larger unit, if model is presently a MV112 or MV120, or add an additional unit 
  to room. Correct by upgrading to a larger unit or add a second one. 
  
 
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